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Old 03-10-2009, 01:07 AM   #1
Guerrilla Drum Making
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Tutorial: Easy Color Fades With Dyes

Here's a quick tutorial from my website...

Creating a color fade with stain is a good alternative to aerosol spraying, and is an easy way to get a cool look for an extremely low cost. In this case, my customer (well...more like a fellow drummer and great friend) described his vision as a "red to yellow fade over a dirty piece of wood."

Easy!!!
Here's the process:


A. Using three Transtint dye colors, I mixed each color with water in three separate containers: black (for the "dirty" undertone), Honey Amber, and Mahogany Red. I also have a separate container of plain water.

B. Prep the wood by sanding it with 320 grit sand paper over a sanding sponge... or something flexible like a regular sponge. This avoids sanding ridges cause by finger pressure when sanding roughly with your hand. Wipe the drum free of dust.

C. After sanding, use plain water and an old cotton t-shirt wad (old is better than new) to dampen the drum.

D. After the entire drum is moist, use a separate cotton wad to add a light coat of black color. As I stated, this is to give the drum a "dirty undertone." When dealing with more figured woods like birdseye, quilted, or flamed maple... this step is great for enchancing the figuring and making the wood "pop" for a 3D effect.

E. When finished with the black coat, let the drum dry to the touch.
F.
Sand it down with 320 grit paper. The softer parts of the wood will retain the black dye and give me the "dirty" effect.
G. Use another cotton wad and apply your lightest color. While the drum is still wet,
H. start applying the second color, in my case, the Mahogany red. Work the edges with thick, dark coats of dye. Slowly work towards the center with less and less dye, until you reach a good stopping point near or before the center.

I. Before our harsh color line dries, quickly dip another cotton wad into your water bowl and use a good amount of circular pressure to work the red color into the yellow zone. From here on out... make small adjustments to add darkness to the edge or water to soften the transition or "fade" zone.
J. Done!
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:04 AM   #2
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Damn! You go through a lot of Cool Whip don't you?!? Seriously though....Great tutorial!

Cheers and many thanks,

-JM
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Latz is just jealous....
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:34 AM   #3
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I've been struggling with settling on a finish idea for my drum project. This looks outstanding and is seemingly easy as pie. Will have to use this "dirty" effect, I like it a lot.

THANKS!
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:37 PM   #4
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Nope... the dirty effect was just what he wanted.
Usually, that technique (a dark stain and sandback) is rad for figured woods...
it really makes them pop when you go over them with the final color.
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:56 PM   #5
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Awesome! Thank you!
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:42 PM   #6
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Since your using a water base stain ,does the top coat have to be water base also?
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:18 PM   #7
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You can use any topcoat or finish on water based stains as long as the stain dries thoroughly.
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guerrilla Drum Making View Post
You can use any topcoat or finish on water based stains as long as the stain dries thoroughly.
How about a 2pac high solid clear 2:1 ???
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:48 AM   #9
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Nice tutorial....thanks for providing that. You're right, the dirty effect really makes exotic wood veneer pop!
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:14 PM   #10
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John...you're the BOMB, buddy!! Great lookin out for us guys who don't know all these tricks!!

YAY!!
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